Sunday, 18 May 2014

Out and About in Kagando


Set on a backdrop of rolling hills and endless farmlands, I used to always believe that Dorchester was one of the most beautiful places to work. Of course, that was until I started working in Kagando. Nestled in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains, I can’t help but stop and feel slightly humbled by the views that are presented to me each morning. With the peaks often covered in cloud, I am constantly reminded of how small and insignificant I appear next to them. I do not however have any inclination to climb the Rwenzori Mountains; I did this last time I was here, and I am slightly ashamed to say that it was possibly one of the most miserable experiences of my life (although mainly due to my complete lack of fitness, rather than anything else).
As I mentioned in my previous blog, the hospital consists of the staff housing on one side of a road, with the Chapel and Hospital grounds on the other. After dodging both chickens and goats, and attempting not to get run over by the multiple motorcycles that travel up and down the path, it takes me a little over two minutes to walk from our front door to the hospital gate. This of course depends upon how many people stop you to ask how your day has been, irrespective of if you know them or not. 

Kagando Hospital

Uganda is a predominantly Christian country, and religion features in a large part of the day to day workings of the hospital. Each working day starts at 8am in the chapel, and although the staff at Kagando appreciate that neither me nor Sophie are particularly religious, we are still expected to attend each morning. The chapel itself is a modest, but welcoming building, with tapestries on the walls and flowers in every corner. The services tends to begin with a couple of upbeat, gospel style hymns, and whilst I would like to say that I join in with as much enthusiasm as everyone else, it really is too early in the morning for me to be singing and dancing (especially when I haven’t had my usual morning cup of coffee!).
Situated next to the chapel is the Outpatient Department, which also doubles up as Kangando’s A&E. It is here that all new patients must first be assessed by a clinical officer (i.e. nurse practitioner) before being admitted onto one of the hospital’s wards. However, to access these wards, or any other part of the hospital for that matter, you have to pass through a narrow gate which is manned by a guard at all times. Kagando itself is much smaller than any hospital I have ever worked in before. There are only five wards (surgery, male and female medicine, paediatrics and obstetrics), and whilst there are only thirty or so beds to each ward, the actual capacity of each ward is much higher; when the beds have run out mattresses are put on the floor (or anywhere else where there is space). There are no computers or fancy white boards on the wards, and the electric is guaranteed to go off at least once a day (normally during a resuscitation or critical point of a major operation). You are lucky if you can find a fully functioning observation machine on any of the wards, and the oxygen concentrators are in such short supply that many patients who are in desperate need of oxygen have to go without. However, whilst the staff in Kagando have little to work with, it never fails to amaze me how resourceful they are - whether it be using a collection of desk lamps to warm the broken incubator on the neonatal unit, or turning an old rubber glove into a drainage bag for an NG tube. Either way, they could definitely teach the NHS managers a thing or two!

Hospital Entrance 

The operating department at Kagando is rather well equipped, with three operating rooms and a recovery area. They have the capacity to perform most obstetric and general surgical procedures, and can even deliver a general anaesthetic (all be it with a very old fashioned ventilator). It also contains one of the only working computers in the hospital, and whilst I would like to think that it is used to improve patient care, I have only ever seen it being used to play solitaire. Although there are many similarities to the theatres that I have worked in before, there are also many differences. For instance, I have never seen a rat run along the floor or a lizard climb up a wall during the middle of an emergency laparotomy. Also, unlike the UK where most things are disposable, almost everything at Kagando is washed and reused, including surgical masks and sterile drapes. Whilst this is very cost effective and no doubt saves the hospital money, it does mean that I often find myself having to iron my scrub hat each morning in an attempt to dry it out. 

Operating Department

Whilst Kagando may not be able to do all the elaborate investigations that we can in the UK, the hospital does have its own radiology department where X-rays and Ultrasounds can be performed. Of course, there is no fancy computer system for viewing the images; instead you have to revert to looking at old fashioned radiographs with a light-box (if you can find one that works). In addition to the radiology department, there is also a small laboratory where basic blood tests can be performed. However, whilst it should in theory be possible carry out renal and liver profiles in Kagando, the reagent needed to perform these investigations has been out of stock for over a month, and there seems to be no sign of it being replaced any time soon. 

Since arriving in Kagando, Sophie has started working on the paediatrics ward, and I have ended up on surgery. When I first began on the surgical ward, there was a Consultant surgeon, a ‘middle grade’ and three interns (who were all in their first year of working since graduating). However, over the last month both the Consultant and all the interns have left (without any immediate replacement being found), and it is now just me and Naomi, the middle grade surgeon, left to look after the ward. Needless to say I have been a lot busier over the last couple of weeks compared to when I started, and whilst I have had both my good and bad days, I have, for the most part, enjoyed it.

My day typically starts at 8.30am with a ward round of all the surgical inpatients; usually I have Naomi with me, but there have been several occasions where I have been on my own. On the occasions that I have had to carry out the ward round by myself, I am not only faced with the problem that I have a rather limited knowledge of many surgical conditions – especially tropical ones (although I am slowly learning), but also by the fact that not many of the patients speak English. I therefore have to conduct the entire consultation though an interpreter (usually a nurse); I cannot begin to describe how frustrating it is when the patient and interpreter have a five minute conversation, but all that is reported back to you is a one word answer.

After the ward round we head to the operating department, where, after a cup of Ugandan tea (warm milk, lots of sugar and the possible suggestion that it was shown a tea bag for all of five seconds), we are ready to start surgery. Of course, nothing ever starts on time, as the first problem to overcome is that there is only one anaesthetist to be shared between both the general surgical and obstetric teams (and C-sections almost always take priority). Even if you manage to secure yourself an anaesthetist, this doesn’t remove the fact that this is Africa, and even in emergencies everything happens at a relaxed pace; I am not known for being the most patient person at the best of times, and I have soon learnt that if you want anything in Africa doing remotely quickly, it is often best if you do it yourself (including wheeling the patient from the ward, to X-ray and then to theatre).

Scrub Hats 

Apart from basic suturing, which I am usually happy to do by myself, my role in theatre is to assist Naomi. Now, it has been a long time since I assisted in an operation, and even then it was a very infrequent occurrence during my foundation training. Fortunately for me Naomi is very patient when I repeatedly hand her the wrong instrument, let go of the retractor when I’m not meant to, or generally get in the way and make her job twice as hard. Nevertheless, I think I am slowly learning, and can now recognise and name about five of the surgical instruments (which is five more than I could name before coming to Kagando). However, I think I may decline the option of learning how to do a C-section by myself – despite the Ugandans’ best efforts to try and persuade me otherwise.

Whilst we are in theatre, me and Naomi are often called to review outpatients, who come in with anything from life threatening conditions that need operating on there and then, to patients who really shouldn’t have bothered paying for the journey (not too dissimilar to A&E departments in England  when I think about it). By the time all the new admissions have been reviewed, I usually finished between 4-5pm. They have asked me if I want to be included in the on-call rota for surgery. However, I have declined this offer for the present moment, as although I have done my fair share of on-calls it the past, I really don’t think I would be the best person to be called for a multi-vehicle RTA, or a Hippopotamus bite (yes, that did happen, and no, the person unsurprisingly didn’t survive).
During my time in Kagando, I have tried to keep a logbook of my daily activities and any interesting cases that I have seen. My initial plan was to include a couple of these cases in this blog. However, after looking through my notes, I have decided that there is simply too much that I want to talk about, and that it is best to leave it all for a separate blog entry. Instead, I am going to finish off this current entry by talking about a couple of things that I have been up to in Kagando, outside of work. 

 
A Ugandan Easter (17th- 21st April)                                                  

For Ugandans, whose life is influenced largely by religion, Easter is one of the most celebrated events of the year, and when we arrived in Kagando on the Monday before Easter it was clear that the staff and students here weren't about to miss out on of all these festivities. The celebrations started on Thursday in the chapel, with Easters Carols and the nursing school’s yearly performance of the ‘Crucifixion of Christ’, a two hour play detailing the days leading up to Christ’s execution, the crucifixion itself, and then the resurrection. Bearing in mind that this was only rehearsed in the evenings, and in between their studies, I think they did do a pretty good job; no one forgot their lines, the costumes were brilliant, and they had even constructed a full sized cross that ‘Jesus’ had to stand upon (although there were times that I did worry that he was about to fall off!). Apparently the same set of students had also performed the Nativity scene at Christmas. However, instead of ending with the happy event of Jesus’s birth, they decided to add drama to their performance by finishing with the slaying of the babes (although they could not understand why everyone left the chapel in a state of shock and tears). 

The Easter Play

Over the Easter weekend itself many people went home, and for those who didn’t there were extended services in the chapel each day (although me and Sophie failed to make it to any of them, having decided in advance that a lie-in was much more appealing).  On Easter Sunday one of the German radiographers, Ulga, had decided to hold an Easter party at her house, where there were plenty of pancakes to eat (all of which had been cooked by Ugandan men who had never cooked anything before, but took great pride in showing off their pancake making skills). As our gift we brought our last supply of English chocolate, Sophie’s mini-easter eggs. Needless to say these got eaten very quickly, and we now how to wait a full three months to have chocolate again (unless we want to eat Ugandan chocolate, which tastes awful and really did ruin chocolate for me last time I was here).


‘Ja Ja Home’ Day (24th April)
If anyone knows anything about heath in Africa, they will know that one of the most prevalent diseases, apart from malaria, is HIV. However, HIV not only affects the person who has the disease, but the whole family as well.  In addition to the risk of the mother passing the disease onto her unborn baby, there is the sad reality that when the parents ultimately die from AIDs, their children will be left to fend for themselves, or, if they are lucky,  be looked after their grandparents (called  ‘Ja Ja’ in Uganda). Several years ago a British couple set up ‘Ja Ja Home’ day, a charity which aims to help and support these children, as well as their carers. The main role of the project is to get all the HIV orphans together once a month in Kagando community hall, where they can have a full health check, and ensure that they are receiving the right treatment. After this is done, they are then allowed to play and have fun with a variety of games that are set up for them, all before receiving a hot meal and heading home. It also gives their carers the chance to get together, share stories, and have a well-deserved break.

 Now, anyone who knows me will surely know that me and children generally don’t get on very well, and that I tend to avoid them whenever I can. However, the second weekend that we were here coincided with ‘Ja Ja Home’ day, and it is such a good cause that even I couldn’t say no to going along and helping out. Forty or so children turned up, with ages ranging from as little as six months to sixteen years. We started off by helping the children to decorate and write their names on the badges that we had made the night before. These were brilliant, and it never fails to amaze me how just a bit of card and ribbon can make one child so happy. Wanting to take a photo of my handy work, I pulled my camera out and photographed a child wearing a badge that I had helped them to make. Needless to say I soon had ten or so children flocking around me, all wanting to have their picture taken.

Making The Badges

After every child had received a name badge, and had subsequently had at least twenty photos taken of themselves, it was time move outside for the fun and games. As I watched a small boy get hours of fun out a toy car that was missing two wheels, and another small girl playing with a cuddly dog with no tail, I realised more than ever how lucky children in the UK are. My brother and sister have more toys at home than they know what to do with, and often won’t even realised if you throw a bag or two of them away. Yet they will cry and beg, and state how unfair life is if they haven’t been brought the latest computer game, or most expensive Lego set. As I watched these children play with broken toys, I appreciated more than everwhy this charity is so important – it allows children to be children again. As they played football, danced to music, or chased a balloon around the field, they were no longer children who had been orphaned by HIV, but instead were just children playing and having fun, something every child is entitled to. Sadly, many of these children live in such poverty that they can’t afford toys, and instead spend their days fetching water, looking for food, or caring for their younger siblings who were also orphaned by this devastating disease. But at ‘Ja Ja Home’ day, they can at last have their childhood back, even if it is just for one morning a month. 

However, the sad reality is that, not matter how important ‘Ja Ja Day’ is, they simply can’t afford to run it all of the time. Despite costing as little as £100 a month, there have been times when they have had to miss a month or two, simply because the funds have run out.  Whilst I’m not going to sit here and beg, if there is anyone reading this who has the odd spare change that they are wishing to donate to charity, but aren’t entirely sure which one, then please at least consider this worthwhile cause.

Playing 'Catapillar'

Whilst I have endless tales of our Safari with crocodiles, or our trip to Lake Bunyonyi, I realise that this entry is already long enough, and my concentration has all but run out. I will therefore leave you with this for the time being, and promise to write again soon.

Sunday, 4 May 2014

Better Late Than Never

Okay, so I admit that this blog entry is a bit later than I originally planned or promised. Whilst I would like to try and blame the internet (or rather lack of), the real reason for my rather late correspondence is that I didn’t really know quite where to start. So much has happened in the last couple of weeks that every time I sat down to try and write this blog, my thoughts jumped from one topic to another with not even a hint of any logical progression. After re-reading my earlier attempts, which all gave the impression of them being produced by a four year-old child fuelled on Coca-Cola and E-numbers, I decided to scrap them all and start again.

Our trip to Kagando started bright and early on the morning of Monday 14th April, and took a little over seven hours. Whilst Kampala has its attractions (the endless traffic jams are not one of them), I failed to feel even remotely upset when we left the capital city behind us, and the skyscrapers and smog gave way to the endless greenery of the Ugandan countryside. During my last visit to Kagando I was still a student, and in a bid to try and save money we decided to take a public bus to Kagando (a non-air-conditioned bus, where the suspension was non-existent I may add). I’m not sure if anyone reading this has ever taken a public bus in Africa before, but after spending ten hours sat next to a goat and an old man with a chicken on his lap, I can only say that this was an ‘experience’.  In comparison, for our current trip we decided to travel by a private taxi to the Hospital; I’m not sure if this is sign of getting older, or just a realisation that we are no longer poor students. Either way, this journey to Kagando was vastly more enjoyable than the last.

During our journey we passed banana fields, tea plantations and many small shacks selling anything from pineapples to coffins. There were even a couple of baboons casually sitting by the side of the road watching us as much interest as we were watching them. The last part of the journey was spent travelling through the Queen Elizabeth National Park, which was where I had been lucky enough spot elephants during my last visit to Kagando; this time I had to make do with just buffalo and warthogs. Now, I can try in-vain to describe the view that we experienced during the last part of our journey. However, I do not feel that I would be doing it any justice. With endless savannahs on one side of the road, and the breathtakingly beautiful Rwenzori Mountain range on the other, it is really something that you had to be there yourself to witness. Nestled in the foothills of this mountain range, some 20km from the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo, was Kagando Hospital. At last, after spending four days in Kampala, I finally felt like I was in Africa.

Our Drive to Kagando

The hospital itself consists of the chapel and hospital grounds on one side of a narrow, pot-hole filled road, with the accommodation on the other side. For our first couple of days here we stayed in a guesthouse (we both had a room each, but all of our cooking was done for us). Whilst the food that they were able to produce on a small charcoal stove was pretty impressive, there really is only so much rice, beans and matoke (mashed plantain) that I can physically eat in one week. As nice as the guest house was, both me and Sophie literally jumped at the chance to move into our own house. Okay, so it may be basic (cold water, intermittent electricity and currently no light our bathroom), but with a lounge, gas hob and own pet gecko running around the place (who we have decided to name Frederick), it really does feel like our own little home in Africa. There are a few stalls in the village that all seem to be selling the same thing , and we have fallen into a routine of going out each day to buy ingredients for our dinner - I think we have developed quite a wide repertoire of  what we can do with just tomato, aubergine, potato and egg!

An Average Night's Meal

Of course, it goes without saying that we are unable to walk anywhere in the village without a group of children following behind us, shouting Mzungu - the rather affectionate term used by Ugandans to describe a white person. It never fails to amaze me how many small children's day you can make just by saying hello back. Everyone in Kagando has been incredibly friendly, which has helped us to settle in and feel at home. Our neighbour, Rita (a British nurse) has been amazing, always offering to helped when we needed it. She even found us an oven so that we could bake a cake, which really did make our week!

Whilst I know that I haven’t actually gone into what I have been up to here, I am very aware that this blog entry has turned into a mini essay, which is more than enough for one person to read (and indeed write) in one sitting. I will therefore leave you with this for the time being, and promise to write again very soon explaining exactly what I have been up to, including children’s parties, boat rides with crocodiles, and even the odd day or two spent in the hospital.
Speak To You Soon (I Promise).